Clear aquarium water

Water Testing Explained

You can't see ammonia, nitrite or nitrate — but they decide whether your fish live or die. Here's what each one means, the safe range, and exactly what to do when it's off.

0 ppm

Safe ammonia

0 ppm

Safe nitrite

<40 ppm

Safe nitrate

Weekly

Test frequency

Ammonia

Safe

0 ppm

The most toxic parameter. Produced by fish waste and rotting food. Even small amounts burn fish gills and can kill quickly.

If it's high: Do a 30% water change immediately, stop feeding for a day, and make sure the tank has cycled (good bacteria built up).

Nitrite

Safe

0 ppm

The middle stage of the cycle. Bacteria convert ammonia into nitrite — still toxic and stops fish blood carrying oxygen.

If it's high: Big water change and add live bacteria. It means your tank is mid-cycle; keep testing until it reads zero.

Nitrate

Safe

Under 20–40 ppm

The end product of the cycle — much less harmful, but builds up over time and fuels algae.

If it's high: Regular 20–25% weekly water changes remove it. Live plants also absorb nitrate as fertiliser.

pH

Safe

6.5–7.5 (stable is best)

How acidic or alkaline the water is. Most community fish adapt to any stable pH in this range — chasing a 'perfect' number causes more harm than good.

If it's high: Don't chase a number. Keep pH stable. Only adjust if your specific species truly needs it, and do it gradually.

When to Test

  • In a new tank: every few days until ammonia and nitrite both read 0 for two tests in a row (the cycle is complete).
  • In a mature tank: once a week, or whenever fish look off (hiding, gasping, clamped fins).
  • After adding new fish: test daily for a week — the bioload just increased.
  • After any water problem: test the next day to confirm the change worked.

💡 Pro tip: Test strips are quick and fine for most beginners. Liquid test kits are more accurate and cheaper per test if you stay in the hobby. Either way — the only bad test is the one you don't do.

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